Why do you need a temporary shelter? The temporary shelter is for when you first arrive at your base camp. You’ll need to for two or three days, until your more “permanent” shelters are built. AS you’ve probably seen as you read through this site, I advocate a number of shelters. Three are best, with two teams of six people moving from one shelter to another, always leaving one blank.
This can be started relatively quickly. Find a tree with a notch (a spot where two branches or limbs branch out). Place a log or long branch in that spot, sloping down to the ground. Like this…
All you have to do now is pile branches, and long sticks along that pole on either side to act as a roof. Remember, survival odds increase as you constantly better your situation! Better your shelter, increase your traps and snares, better your fire, repeat.
In the Digouts blog, I have listed some options. Your master plan is: Do not place all your eggs in one basket. You need several shelters, each with some survival supplies.
Another quick shelter is the poncho shelter.
From the Army Ranger Manual…
“It takes only a short time and minimal equipment to build this lean-to You need a poncho, 6 to 10 feet of rope, three stakes about 6 inches long, and two trees (or two poles) 7 to 9 feet apart.
Before you select the trees you will use (or decide where to place the poles), check the wind direction. Make sure the back of your lean-to will be into the wind. To make the lean-to
(a) Tie off the hood of the poncho. To do this, pull the draw cord tight; roll the hood long ways, fold it into thirds, and tie it with the draw cord.
(b) Cut the rope in half. On one long side of the poncho, tie half of the rope to one corner grommet, and the other half to the other corner grommet.
(c) Attach a drip stick (about a 4-inch stick) to each rope 1/4 to 3/4 inches away from the grommet. These drip sticks will keep rainwater from running down the ropes into the lean-to. Using drip lines is another way to prevent dripping inside the shelter. Tie lines or string about 4 inches long to each grommet along the top edge of the shelter. This allows water to run to and down the line without dripping into the shelter.
(d) Tie the ropes about waist high on the trees (uprights). Use a round turn and two half hitches with quick-release knot.
(e) Spread the poncho into the wind and anchor to the ground. To do this, put three sharpened sticks through the grommets and into the ground
Lean To with Fire Break
This one is a bit more elaborate.
As you can see, it involves creating a frame from branches.
8 branches are needed, and two saplings or trees.
Create your frame using 4 limbs or branches. This is done by tying twine in an “X” pattern around each support. Now, create supports with the last 4 limbs or branches.
Tie the entire frame to two saplings or trees in the same manner. All you have to do to finish this is start tying some branches to your frame. Once you get about half a dozen tied in place, all you have to do is weave the other branches in. Some people prefer to use pine for this, turning it so that the branches are backwards. This creates a slope so that water from rain or melting snow will run down the outside of the wall. The more tightly you weave the branches in, the less water leaks through.
It seems like a lot, but it’s a natural camouflage… and this wall section will serve as the pattern to a more “permanent” shelter. If you house your “permanant” shelters inside thick stands of trees, it can begin to approximate a stand of overgrowth. When you encase this to having 4 walls, by weaving natural overgrowth and weeds in, you can make it appear to simply be a very large section of thick brush and overgrowth.
Which do I advocate? Build-ups or digouts? I’m not really choosing for you – you have to decide what’s the best method for you. If you end up in a heavily wooded area with no hills, the digout is not an option. If you have the option, I advocate both. The digout, if properly prepared, is your VERY BEST BET for concealment – but it’s a labor-intensive undertaking.
Notice on the build up shelter diagrammed above, there’s a fire break. This firebreak keeps the heat AND THE LIGHT carefully caught inside the shelter. If you end up making your exodus in December, this will be a life saver- literally. Exposure to the elements, in in a 40 degree night, will kill you in three hours.
These are QUICK shelters. These are meant to be built upon arriving at a base camp. The more complicated one above can be done if you arrive at your base camp in the morning, or on day two.
Obviously, you’re not going to want to survive in quick shelters like this for seven years. For a permanent shelter, you have to first find a place where it will be concealed, inconspicuous, and in an area few human beings EVER travel.
The things one must understand is… in your survival situation – i.e., running from the Antichrist and his armies… you’ll probably be heading into dangerous places to survive. If they were wonderful vacation places, trust me, people would be living there. And if people live there, it’s immediately an area full of potential informers who will be quick to identify someone who does not have The Mark.
When you get to your survival location, you’ll have three immediate priorities – all three equal in importance all at the same time.
Most survival people tell you concentrate on #’s 1 & 2, and ignoring #3 for that day. You’ve only got so much time to dedicate. And I almost guarantee that when you reach your survival location, you’ll be arriving probably late afternoon/early evening. It just never seems to happen that you get there by 6 am!
So, you may end up building a version of the poncho shelter or a quick lean to the first day, then start working on your fire. I talk a lot about fires on the fire page.
Over the next few days, you’ll want to create several shelters, in various locations. Why? Because if one is discovered, and you make a break for it, and you only built one shelter…. you’re sunk. You may now be completely without supplies, a place to run, and no tools.
This is a disaster, as you only survived this long by tools and supplies.
To avoid capture, and loss of all your items, there are certain rules (I’ll repeat these at several spots throughout the site, so you won’t have to be looking for them.)
- Learn to move from shelter to shelter. this way you’ll have evenly stocked and distributed your supplies cache at more than one spot. It also will reduce the appearance of a person living in one spot for a long period of time.
- Do not have more than three people living in one place. Unless you’re living in the mountains, be aware that the more people you have, the better the chances of someone tipping people off. The less people, the less visibility.
- Do not try to survive alone. I realize most of you will find this out far too late and have to go NOW. If you’re alone, that’s the way it is. But if you’re alone and get hurt or sick… you’re it. And it’s easier to sneak up one one person alone, than two or three people taking watches.
This is your main shelter. You’ll use this as primary shelter.
One Shelter A is built, you’ll work on building and stocking this one. Food, firewood, water. Water is your biggest challenge, as you’re going to need to harvest and stockpile a great deal of it.
This is the third one. As you stock your shelters, remember to distribute supplies to them evenly. Being in three places over a few days will lessen the chance of being spotted. On Optimum numbers, I discuss the concept of 2 to 3 couples per shelter, and a maximum number of 1 dozen people. They rotate in teams to two, always leaving one shelter unused. This helps to conceal base camps, in that they always seem to be periodically empty.
From the US Army Survival Manual…
“When you are in a survival situation and realize that shelter is a high priority, start looking for shelter as
soon as possible. As you do so, remember what you will need at the site. Two requisites are–
- It must contain material to make the type of shelter you need.
- It must be large enough and level enough for you to lie down comfortably.
“When you consider these requisites, however, you cannot ignore your tactical situation or your safety.
You must also consider whether the site–
- Provides concealment from enemy observation.
- Has camouflaged escape routes.
- Is suitable for signaling, if necessary.
- Provides protection against wild animals and rocks and dead trees that might fall.
- Is free from insects, reptiles, and poisonous plants.
You must also remember the problems that could arise in your environment. For instance–
- Avoid flash flood areas in foothills.
- Avoid avalanche or rockslide areas in mountainous terrain.
- Avoid sites near bodies of water that are below the high water mark.
When considering shelter site selection, use the word BLISS as a guide.
B – Blend in with the surroundings.
L – Low silhouette.
I – Irregular shape.
S – Small.
S – Secluded location.
Permanent Build-up shelters: My utmost for a permanent build up would be a Viking Longhouse. See the top of the page. The idea is that you’re building four walls and an A frame ceiling. One possible option to build the walls is… split logs, and drop them in between wood slats. This way, the walls hold them in place.
Viking longhouses usually had turf cut out and placed over it, An easier way is to simply get mud. If you slope the walls, you can simply haul buckets of mud up on the roof and dump them on. The mud runs down the side and accumulates. After a few weeks, plants begin to develop on it, and behold… within a few months, your overwhelmingly large structure is now hidden from view… because it looks like a small hill.
Hide the doorway and you’re good to go.